Apple Well & Pump Company Frequently Asked Questions

Your water well should be located opposite and or at least 75 feet away from any septic field and at least 50′ feet from any septic tank. Your wellhead should extend at least 8″ to 12” above grade. Your well is most likely 4″ to 6″ diameter steel. However, Some States and counties have approved PVC. 

You may have a well pit. If so, your well may be located in a concrete or cement block vault along with your tank and controls. Constructing a new well pit is illegal! Only tanks and controls are allowed in new vault applications if need be.

If you have a JET-PUMP, there are six basic reasons for this condition. (1) the impellers are worn. (2) a vacuum or pressure leak (3) your sand point is plugged (4) a jet or venturi is plugged (5) a faulty pressure switch (6) the water table has dropped 

If you have a SUBMERSIBLE PUMP: (1) the pump is worn, (2) the water table has dropped, (3) there is a leak, (4) the intake is plugged (5) a faulty pressure switch. 

Our database of well depths and water tables is rather extensive. We are tied to many state and geological agencies. We should have a good handle on an approximate depth, if not the actual depth. Other information is also at hand. 

With just a little help from you, we can usually identify what kind of equipment you have, the make and model, and the approximate manufacturing date. There are a variety of hidden and scripted date codes. Just call, and we will tell you where to look. 

A well cap is an approved manufactured cover of cast steel, aluminum, or PVC. It is fastened onto the well casing with bolts and a rubber compression “O” ring and gasket. Both are incorporated to make a watertight and vermin-proof seal. Well caps are also vented with brass or stainless mesh. A female threaded port is used to tie in and insert an electrical cable. Well caps must be state-approved. 

Perhaps? Many times, homeowners cause more problems than they solve. 
But… yes, you can. Dumping a gallon or two of household bleach down your well does not effectively clean and disinfect your well or water supply. 

Remember…. “CHLORINE IS POISON” just look at the label! The concentrations necessary and the placement are all factors you should know. 

Bleach is highly corrosive, and if left in high concentrations on parts and materials inside your well, it will surely destroy the mechanical apparatus or sealing device. A $1.79 gallon of beach may ruin your pump! Be safe, not sorry. Call for advice. We will be glad to help! 

Your water well should be located opposite and or at least 75 feet away from any septic field and at least 50′ feet from any septic tank. Your wellhead should extend at least 8″ to 12” above grade. Your well is most likely 4″ to 6″ diameter steel. However, Some States and counties have approved PVC. 

You may have a well pit. If so, your well may be located in a concrete or cement block vault along with your tank and controls. Constructing a new well pit is illegal! Only tanks and controls are allowed in new vault applications if need be.

CONTAMINATED WATER MAY BE CRYSTAL CLEAR, MAY HAVE NO SMELL, AND TASTE SIMPLY WONDERFUL! 

Infants and seniors have delicate systems. Waterborne bacteria can cause severe organ and neurological damage and, if undetected, death! We recommend that your water well and/or pumping system be inspected by a state-licensed and certified contractor and that a water sample be taken and repeated in 30 days. For your own safety, an annual “sample only” is advised. 

Remember, contaminated water can be crystal clear, have no smell, and taste simply wonderful. For more information, click on well inspections for realtors and homeowners. 

Yes, sample bottles are available from your local Department of Public Health or at our facility. Please remember to get sampling instructions and time your sample around laboratory hours and incubation times. The best time to take and submit a sample is usually on Mondays or Tuesdays. Samples sitting over weekends are not preferred. Suppose you prefer the confidential results of an in-home water sample rather than a public laboratory record. In that case, sample kits are available at our office or sent directly to you at $19.95 + plus $3.20 shipping and handling. 

All water systems require a pressure tank, and size does make a difference! There are a few types of storage tanks out there. The most functional tank is the captive air or bladder-type tank. Most bladder-type tanks are completely maintenance-free and come in a variety of sizes to accommodate the water pump. Some tanks are buried when there is no other alternative. Unfortunately, most burial tanks are attacked by natural soil acids and rust out several years after installation. If the iron, mineral content, and pH of your water are not aggressive, a burial tank may fit your application. The labor to replace a burial tank will require a backhoe or some type of excavating equipment. Pretty costly!!! To service or replace a tank inside is simply a service call. 

It doesn’t hurt your pump to run as much as it does to cycle or turn on and off rapidly. Short cycling or a water-logged tank causes the pump to turn on and off excessively. Let’s face it—there are so many on-and-offs a pump can take. A water-logged tank is the single most common reason for pump failure. If you’re concerned, we can coach you over the phone on how to balance, calibrate, and adjust your system to maximize efficiency and performance. 

A pump’s life is gauged by the number of times it goes on and off. If you can reduce the on and offs or (cycles), you will increase the life of your pump! To accomplish this, you must have the correct tank size. A good rule of thumb, and one that all manufacturers recommend, is that a pump should run at least (1) one minute from cut-in to cut-out. For pumps over ¾ horsepower, (2) two minutes is recommended. To properly size a tank, you must know the rate in gallons per minute that your pump will pump. Most residential pumps are rated at 10 GPM (gallons per minute). Need help? Advice is free. 

Great…. Now we have to prove ourselves! All mass merchandisers have purchase power far beyond the means of any local service and repair firm. Truckloads of economy and below-trade standard pumps, parts, tanks, and fittings are available without explanation as fast as your Visa card can process. All they have to do is sell it. They don’t have to install, adjust, calibrate, or balance anything! They are not called upon to design a system that fits your needs or calculate performance curves that provide efficient and cost-effective operation. The only guarantee you have is your receipt; the labor’s on you! Planning on taking it back? Guess again. If your pump even appears used or previously installed, it’s yours to keep. No returns on used merchandise. Most likely, you’re helped by a young, well-intended youth who does not have the slightest idea of anything, but the cost and bigger must be better. You are better off taking the money you might have saved and buying a proven, nationally known product by a nationally known manufacturer, with a real guarantee by a contractor who is certified and licensed, who is proud to look you straight in the eye at the coffee shop or grocery store. It doesn’t cost… it pays! 

Yes, and quite easily, too! Well pits have been the single most common cause and source of contaminated water supplies. Extending your well casing out of the well pit, free of surface water and stagnant water, will reduce the risk of contaminated water. Moving the tank and controls out of the well pit to a controlled dry environment will prolong the life of the system and provide easy service and repair. 

We would like to say that everything can be solved and answered by e-mail and the Internet. However, sometimes, we need to communicate over the phone or face to face. If you have a question and need a real answer, call. It’s free, and it’s right! 

Toll-Free	1-800-935-5737
East Dubuque, IL	815-747-2727
Savanna, IL	815-273-2131
Cuba City, WI	608-744-8445
Dubuque, IA	563-556-8989
Galena, IL	815-777-2900
Hanover, IL	815-591-2131

E-mail: info@yourwaterwellandpump.com